Artillery Hornet Bowden to Direct Drive Conversion

Description
Difficulty: Advanced

1. Introduction
Welcome to this guide on converting your Artillery hornet 3D printer from a Bowden extrusion system to a direct drive setup! This modification can significantly improve print quality, reduce stringing, and allow for easier printing of flexible filaments like TPU. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step.

2. Why convert to Direct Drive?

Improved Retraction: Shorter filament path means faster and more precise retractions, reducing stringing and blobs.
Better Control over Flexibles: Direct drive systems push flexible filaments directly into the hotend, preventing buckling and jams common with Bowden setups.
Enhanced Print Quality: More consistent extrusion can lead to smoother surfaces and better overall print fidelity.

3. Disclaimer

Please read carefully before proceeding: Modifying your 3D printer carries inherent risks. Incorrect installation or handling can damage your printer, cause personal injury, or void your warranty. While I've done my best to provide accurate instructions, I am not responsible for any damage or injury that may occur from following this guide. Proceed at your own risk and only if you are comfortable with basic electronics and mechanical work. If you are unsure about any step, seek professional assistance or consult your printer's official documentation. Always disconnect your printer from power before working on it.

4. Tools & Materials You'll Need

Before you begin, gather all the necessary tools and parts.

Tools:

• Hex key set (Allen wrenches)
• Screwdriver set (Phillips and Flathead)
• Pliers (needle-nose recommended)
• Wire cutters/strippers (if modifying wiring)
• Zip ties or cable management wraps
• 3D printer (obviously!

Materials/Parts:

• Direct Drive motor: I have chosen the Sherpa Mini Extruder to achieve this conversion process goal keeping the weight as light as possible.
• New Hotend: In my case I have chosen to use a E3D V6 Hotend 24V 50W Ceramic Heating Core Print Head For Voron 2.4.
• Screws & Nuts: “M3 x 8mm, M3 x 50m, ”
• Fans: 4020 40mm Fan DC 24V, 5015 50mm Fan 24V
• Some brass inserts for 3mm Screws ** PTFE Tubing:**: "Short piece, ~5-10cm, for between extruder and hotend"
• Zip Ties/Cable Sleeving: For cable management.
• VORON Stealthburner Sherpamini Adapdator from AZ mod.

I strongly recommend everyone convert their 3D printer to linear rails using this guide.

1. Step-by-Step Installation Guide Follow these steps carefully. Take photos at each stage if you think you'll need to reference them later.

• 6.1 Print the VORON Stealthburner Sherpa Mini Adaptor in ASA, following the VORON reference guide.
• 6.2 Print the attached parts using PLA+ or ASA. I don't recommend PETG due to its flexibility.
• 6.3 Start disassembling your previous hotend to extract the Nozzle PCB Board. Note!. Its required to complete the conversion process.
• 6.4 Remove the original Bowden motor extruder. Then, use the 'filament dust filter base' to secure the assembly.

Do not forget to remap your motor steps for the extruder and bl Touch in case you have one.

FYI: I've installed Klipper on my Artillery Hornet. Let me know in the comments if you want to know how!

Do not forget to my work. Buy me a coffee