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Retro Glide v2.1 - Creality K1 series Gantry upgrade

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Creation quality: 5/5 (3 votes)
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16 files (STL and ZIP) Close
  • Back L 2.0 DS.stl
  • Back L 2.0.stl
  • Back R 2.0 DS.stl
  • Back R 2.0.stl
  • CFS Filament Cutter Trigger.stl
  • AP Hose Clip.stl
  • Front Right 2.0.stl
  • Front left 2.0.stl
  • Retro Glide v2 Assembly and installation guide.zip
    • Retro Glide v2 Assembly and installation.pdf
  • Retro Glide v2 Double Shear Original Motors Full Assembly.stl
  • Retro Glide v2 No Double Shear Full Assembly.stl
  • RetroGlide Gear_Pulley Puller M5x25_1nut.stl
  • Tensioner L 2.0.stl
  • Tensioner R 2.0.stl
  • XY L 2.0.stl
  • XY R 2.0.stl

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Last update 2025-06-03 at 22:23
Publication date 2024-11-25 at 19:55
Design number 2503523
RetroD

RetroD

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3D printer file info

3D model description

Full gantry upgrade.
So far, I'm able to have my max accelerations at 35k and my outer walls at 20k, with clean prints. My goal isn't speed; it's print quality, but the speed is a nice bonus.

Now CFS compatible.

Whats the Point?
The point of this gantry is to correct the skew and stiffness of the motion system, giving it the love it should have gotten from the factory. I have tried to make it as close as possible to the original gantry so you can use most of the original parts.
I have also moved the tensioners to the front, allowing for a better position on the back pulleys for better grip on the belts, allowing for better accelerations, and making it way easier to tension the belts.

Importance of Clean Graphs?
The nice, clean graphs for input shapers allow you to push it further than the recommended accelerations, because you are starting from a clean base with no vibrations. The faster you go, the more it amplifies the vibrations. So if you start with low vibrations, by the time you max out the vibrations, it'll be way further than the recommended accelerations. So don't look at recommended, look at the vibrations. See the added YouTube video for proof and added inpush shaper graphs.

If you don't know how to remove the top of the printer and access the gantry, please YouTube it first. It's really easy, and there are many videos on YouTube already. So take your time and do it properly.

Materials needed:
- M4x20 Hexscrew
- 6mm to 7.7mm Belts (can use original)
- Idlers: 2mgt 2gt 20 teeth deflection pulley bore 4mm for timing belt width 7.7mm

I used this kit for the Idlers and the Belts:

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006323263475.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.64a14633tjdrmw&algo_pvid=5f2db827-e4ed-4420-9441-05d19a6cd860&algo_exp_id=5f2db827-e4ed-4420-9441-05d19a6cd860-10&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21MXN%21213.88%21192.49%21%21%2112.30%2111.07%21%402101ec1f17080593107242090efa9e%2112000036760375964%21sea%21MX%211710632821%21&curPageLogUid=3mAl2E15GDsY&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Please see the provided Guide for installation.

If you want to use the original motors with the bearing at the top for double shear, please use the correct files.

Youtube link
https://youtube.com/shorts/zW41wj7MuKY

Disclaimer
Use at your own risk. These have worked great for me and my K1 max and K1. Please only do this mod if you know what you are doing. I am not responsible for your mistakes

Update:
Complete overhaul to v2.
Added Instruction Guide.

Update:
Added v2.1.
--Some quality of life upgrades.
--Adjusted the front tensioner size so everything is flush with the XY ts.
--Changed tensioners to protect the bearing from getting hit by XY ts.
--Adjust the XY ts and Back motor mounts to allow the X gantry to move back further by 2mm. for more coverage.
Use flat head screws for the back motor mounts.

Added Filament Cutter Trigger for CFS upgrade.
(See added image For Install location) Use double-sided tape for attaching.

3D printing settings

Ensure that you have calibrated your filaments and ed for shrinkage. There is a 0.15 tolerance, but shrinkage will cause the holes to shift.

ABS or some other high-temp filament that is rigid.
7 walls
7 top
7 bot
25%+ for infill

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